Beginner’s Step-By-Step Guide to Hatching Your Own Chicken Eggs
Do you want to learn how to incubate chicken eggs and have healthy hatch? This is the perfect place to start.
Over 1,000 Eggs Incubated
If you are new to hatching chicks and want to learn the ropes from someone who has hatched literally hundreds, then I’m your gal!
Prior to transitioning to being home full time with my kids and running our homestead, I was the 4-H Youth Educator for my county.
As a part of that, I hatched eggs with all the local 4th graders each spring. This embryology program was one of the highlights of my job, helping hundreds of children experience the wonder of helping new life along, and eventually seeing it come to be.
That’s enough of getting philosophical, let’s learn how to hatch chicken eggs.
Selecting an Incubator
I have the Nurture Right Harvest Pro Incubator and I really like it. This incubator only holds twenty-two eggs as opposed to the forty-four a larger, styrofoam based, incubator can hold. Still, I think this size is perfect for the small farm or homestead.
When choosing an incubator, here are a few things I would look for.
Button Temperature Controls
Older and less expensive models of the big foam ones have a metal lever you move ever so slightly to set the temperature. These are trickier to get the incubator to the correct and consistent temperature. I like an incubator with simple buttons like a tiny thermostat.
Humidity Gauge
This measure the relative humidity in the incubator so you can make sure it stays where it should throughout the incubation process. I appreciate an incubator that offers multiple ways of humidity control (like the NurtureRight 360 – see my review here).
This isn’t a deal breaker as you can buy small humidity meters for cheap. It is still nice to have this built right into the machine if possible.
Egg Turner
Most units come with an automatic egg turner, but it is a good thing to double check before purchasing if it is sold separately or not.
If you do not have an automatic turner you will have to manually turn eggs several times a day which is a huge pain. It also will mess with the temperature and humidity of the eggs.
Size Flexibility
If you plan on hatching other types of eggs, such as duck eggs, quail, or goose, you will need a different size turner or a turner that is adjustable.
Forced-Air Incubator vs. Still-Air Incubators
Most incubators these days are forced air, where there is a small fan to help circulate the warm air evenly around the eggs. Still air incubators are not as efficient, so you likely won’t even see one. But just in case, it is good to be aware.
Cleanability
Part of why I like the Nurture Right 360 is because of the ease in cleaning. After years of cleaning four foam incubators each spring, I never felt like they really truly got clean. The plastic is much easier to scrub out.
Collecting Eggs
When picking eggs to ensure you get the most baby chicks to hatch there are some guidelines you will want to follow.
Make Sure the Eggs Haven’t Frozen
If the eggs have gotten too cold or frozen, they will very likely fail during the incubator process.
I usually wait to hatch eggs until temperatures during the day are at a minimum in the 50s during the day. Collect the eggs before nightfall when the temperature drops.
Only Collect for Seven Days
Once eggs are older than a week or so, their viability will begin to drop. For best results use eggs that are only a few days old.
Avoid Dirty or Funky Eggs
A little gunk on an egg isn’t a huge deal so long as you can easily brush most of it off. Hatching eggs should not be washed prior to hatching so try to pick the most clean eggs you have.
You also want to avoid eggs that are significantly abnormal. Very small eggs that young chickens lay should be a no-go. Especially large ones that look like double yolkers are also not a good choice (no, you won’t get two for one, it likely wouldn’t develop at all).
Eggs that have a weaker looking shell, or eggs that are very elongated are also not good contenders.
Find Fertile Chicken Eggs
In order to get chicks, you must have fertilized eggs. A rooster needs to have mated with the hen in order for her eggs to be fertile and create a chick. If you collect eggs from a rooster-less flock, you will not get chicks as these are infertile eggs.
Setting Up the Incubator
Each incubator is going to be slightly different, so make sure you keep the manual handy for optimal operation.
Location and Test Run
Select a place to set it up where it is going to be for around 23 days.
I like to keep it in my kitchen where I can easily keep an eye on it. I pick a counter that doesn’t see too much action so the incubator won’t get jostled around.
It is a good idea to avoid windows with direct sunlight that might cause fluctuations by day and night the incubator’s temperature.
Once you have selected a safe location, plug it in and set it for the ideal emperature of 99 degrees F. Anywhere between 98-100 is acceptable, but 99 is the sweet spot. Let it run for at least 24 hours to stabilize and make sure it is all working correctly.
I also like to recommend putting some sort of ribbon, note, or other brightly colored thing on this cord to make it very recognizable. That way if it sits near where you plug in your coffee pot, you won’t accidentally unplug the incubator.
Adding Water
Next, add water to the incubator in the water reservoir. I recommend filtered water if possible, just to keep things as clean and functional as possible. How much water is going to depend on your particular incubator, so follow the instructions it provides.
It is best to use room temperature water for this, as warm water may increase the temperature too much and cold water will reduce it.
Allow the humidity to stabilize for a few hours before putting the eggs in. You want it around 50%. 45-55% is alright, but again aim for that 50%. Try to maintain it at this humidity until three days before hatching (around day 18).
Air Flow
The last thing to pay attention to is the air flow spot. All incubators will have a small hole with a little plug in it. This should remain closed until it is right before hatching time.
This allows more airflow and oxygen which the chicks will need when they hatch. When you take the plug out, I recommend taping it to the side of your incubator or chances are you will lose it. Ask me how I know.
As part of the prep process, make sure you install the egg turner and watch that it is functioning properly.
Placing The Eggs
Once the temperature and humidity are set and stable, it is time to put your eggs in! Remove the cover of the incubator. Place the eggs each in their own spot. Depending on what kind of turner you have, you will want to pay attention to which way the eggs point.
A round incubator like mine should have the pointed part pointing towards the middle with the large end pointing towards the outer edge.
If you have tray style turners, the eggs should go in them pointy side down like they would be in a carton.
With a flat style turner, the eggs will lie on their side, pointy end pointing your direction.
Return the cover to the eggs. Now we watch, maintain, and wait.
Keep an eye on the temperature and the humidity, adding water or adjusting the temperature as necessary. I’ve i that humidity can dip significantly overnight, so I often will add water right before bed to keep things stable.
Mark the Date on a Calendar
Be sure to make the date you started eggs on your calendar. Some incubators like mine have a built-in countdown clock. However, if it loses power for some reason (like a spring thunderstorm) it might start the count over again once plugged in.
Candling and Culling
After a week, it is time to candle the eggs.
This process involves holding the eggs up to a bright light and looking to see if anything is developing in the eggs. Some incubators come with a candler. You can also buy them for relatively cheap.
This first week you will likely see some veins, or possibly a very small dark spot that is an eye of the developing chick.
If the light shines right on through the egg and the whole thing illuminates with nothing happening, that one is a dud. Possibly it was never fertilized to begin with. Possibly something was funky with it and nature just said, “nope, not this one”.
Discard the egg gently in your garbage OUTSIDE (or chuck it in the woods) so it doesn’t get broken and stink up your whole house.
This candling process should be repeated at the fourteen day/two week mark. By this week you will usually see a lot of dark mass inside but not much else. See photo below.
Three Days Prior to Hatching
Just before hatching there are some important steps you’ll need to take. I usually do these important steps on about 18 days of incubation. It takes chicks around 21 days to hatch.
Remove the Turner
Take out the automatic turner at this point. You do not want to turn the eggs before hatching so chicks can position themselves in the egg for optimum hatching with out being rolled around.
The turner also could cause injury to chicks who have just hatched.
Up the Humidity
Most incubators will have instructions for how to increase the humidity right before hatching. Humidity levels should sit somewhere between 65-70% those last few days. You might pour more water in a hole, tray, etc. Again always use room temperature water or you might see a temperature drop or spike.
Hatching
Once you first see a chick pip, which is poking a hole through their shell, you will want to increase the amount of oxygen available in the incubator. Some have a plug you remove.
On the Nurture Right you are able to open a little window in the front to optimize air flow. This is another one you will need to consult the manual on your incubator.
Chicks can take several hours for the hatching process to complete, so be patient! From first pipping to being fully out sometimes takes all day. It’s hard work being born!
Once a chick is fully out, leave them in the incubator for around 24 hours, until their feathers are all fluffy. They should not be wet at all when you remove them. Day-old chicks have enough nutrition from their egg to last them for 24 hours so don’t worry about them getting hungry.
I usually leave the cracked eggs in there until several chicks have hatched and are fluffed up enough for moving them to a brooder. Then when I remove the chicks I quickly scoop out the old egg shells and discard them.
Moving to a Brooder
Once there are a couple of chicks hatched and fluffy you can move them to their brooder. I have an entire blog post that covers the best way to create a brooder setup so be sure to check it out for more details.
Try not to move a chick alone, as having at least one companion will help them to feel safe and give them a snuggle buddy.
Cleaning Up
After day 23, any unhatched eggs I put CAREFULLY in my outdoor trash can.
Sweep out any solid bits you can from the incubator, then give it a good scrubbing out with a mild soap. I usually spritz it with a bleach sanitizer and allow it to airdry. Then store it somewhere safe until you need it next time.
You will be tempted to just leave it dirty and deal with it later. Resist the urge! Clean it out right away and you’ll be grateful later.
Troubleshooting
Unfortunately even if you keep a proper temperature, use fertile hatching eggs, and have the correct humidity, you can still have issues here or there. Here are a few issues I have come across when hatching my own eggs.
Pip But No Hatch
This is so heartbreaking, when a chick pokes that first hole and never hatches. It’s just one of those things, where there was something about that chick that it was not able to hatch.
So long as this only happens with maybe one or two chicks max, it is probably an issue of nature and nothing to do with your hatching process. If many of the chicks have this issue then you will want to look at your process to see where something might have gone wrong.
Struggling Chick
This is another tough one. A chick starts to hatch and is unable to fully get out of the egg and you can hear them in there. This is going to be a judgement call on your part.
You can try to carefully help the chick get out of the egg. It usually is an issue of humidity where the shell membrane has sort of shrink-wrapped the chick and they can’t get out.
If you help, there is a decent chance the chick might struggle and not make it. It could also have a deformity from the process or if it developed strangely.
The best thing you can do if you choose to help is to proceed slowly and with caution, using a warm, moist wash cloth to rehydrate areas of the shell around the chick as you remove them. Do not pour liquid in the egg or you will drown the chick.
Malformed
Some chicks can come out with funky feet or another issue. Some of these can be remedied with things like a small splint on their feet to keep their toes splayed out properly (tiny piece of cardstock and a bandaid or vet wrap for that) or use painter’s tape or bandaids to keep their legs from splaying out by taping them closer together.
Things Stuck to the Butt
If chicks have egg shell or anything else stuck to their butt, remove it very slowly and carefully with a warm damp washcloth.
They have such tender skin that pulling stuck shells parts off their bodies can cause their skin to tear. Pulling it off their butts can literally pull their intestines inside out. It sounds horrible but it is important you are aware of these things.
Respectfully Dispatching
We all hope for healthy chicks and do everything we can to get the best results for our little baby birds. However, sometimes a chick is clearly suffering and there isn’t anything we can do to help them. Sometimes the most humane thing we can do is quickly put an end to their pain.
WARNING – About to discuss how to end the life of a chick
My preferred method for respectfully dispatching a chick is to hold them securely but gently in my hand, stroke their head and allow them to feel calm and peaceful.
While they are in this state, I will firmly and quickly take their head and neck in my other hand, then twist my hands in opposite directions. This breaks their neck instantly and is sometimes the greatest kindness we can give them.
To Sum Up
I hate to end on a sad note so let’s not! Hatching your own chicks can be a very rewarding experience and is endlessly fun to do with children. Follow the instructions of your incubator, set yourself up for success with good egg selection and prep, and you will have a great hatch rate and a brooder full of chickens. Good luck!
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If you found this article helpful and want to learn more about keeping your own chickens, then please check out my chicken keeping course!
More from the Coop
- How to Brood Chicks
- What if My Incubator Loses Power?
- Buff Orpington Chickens – The Complete Guide
- How Many Nesting Boxes Per Chicken?
Sources
The absolute best source I can recommend is Gail Damerow’s Hatching and Brooding Your Own Chicks. It goes much further in depth on anything and everything you might need to know.
